Limani, a new Greek seafood restaurant in Chestnut Hill, has a dazzling setting

Where to go Limani on The Street in Chestnut Hill, where a large, sparsely populated display case of fresh fish on ice shares space with customers in the dining room.

Why The restaurant is a third location of a New York and Long Island establishment specializing in Greek cuisine and seafood.

The story back When you enter the ground floor, which will soon be a wine bar, no one is there to greet you. Find your way one flight up to the dining room, where the centerpiece is a surprisingly bright round chandelier; numerous star pendants hang in the room, which features light white decor and pale wood throughout. And you’re not in Florida. The room, which can accommodate 240 people, says luxury. Istanbul-raised manager Alper Sensoy checks every table and couldn’t be more charming. He moves through the dining room like a seasoned butler, but he hasn’t taught the waiters to smile.

The centerpiece of the dining room is a surprisingly bright round chandelier. Josh Reynolds for the Boston Globe

what to eat The grilled calamari are excellent. The fluffy Greek fries, sprinkled sparingly with oregano and kefalograviera cheese, are not so crispy but warm and delicious. The spanakopita is a generous portion (it could be a starter) but needs a few more minutes in the oven. The halibut steak is perfect, a thick, flaky, sweet, oceanic cut. In mid-August, the “seasonal” vegetables that accompany it are broccoli, cauliflower and carrots. Sensoy says the fish comes in daily from New York and the reason for the scarcity of the display case is that the restaurant tries to serve only the freshest fish.

what to drink The bartender mixes a good Old Fashioned rye whiskey with classic ingredients and ideal proportions. The wine list, with a handful of Greek bottles, is strictly business class: lots of major producers in prestige appellations, but not much fun or adventure.

The take-out sale A $32 prix fixe lunch seems like a bargain, as you’ll barely get a dinner entree for that price (range is $24-$68). Everything here is done brilliantly and it’s one of those dining rooms that could be intimidating. Except that it is not possible when the cold bread tastes like scali and the menus are presented to our table upside down. The Street, 33 Boylston Street, Chestnut Hill, 617-545-0000, www.limani.com/chestnut-hill

The fish sit on ice in a display case in the center of the dining room.Josh Reynolds for the Boston Globe

Sheryl Julian can be reached at [email protected] Follow her on Twitter @sheryljulian.



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