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Anyone who’s ever been to an after-hours restaurant or found joy in McDonald’s “every hour hotcakes” knows that all-day breakfast menus aren’t new. But if you are looking for something healthier, a new generation of restaurants with serious chefs in the kitchen is at your service. And they serve more than a better breakfast all day, every day.
Where weekday breakfasts once meant greasy spoons, now you can easily sit on malted pancakes with hazelnut maple syrup (get the recipe) or an egg and sausage sandwich with gochujang aioli, both of which you’ll find at the bustling NYC Sunday restaurant in Brooklyn.
Chefs like Sunday’s Jaime Young, who was a chef at Michelin-starred Atera, bring their A game to breakfast, and that doesn’t devalue their dinner service, either. Great food has become an expectation every hour of the day, and these chefs are up to the occasion.
At newly opened Kismet in Los Angeles, that means Middle Eastern inspired dishes like sesame nut granola, za’atar squash pies, and a Turkish breakfast that goes all out. At De Maria in New York, chef Camille Becerra’s latest venture, that means the best banana bread we’ve tried in recent memory and all the quirky and fresh dishes Becerra is known for, like the bowl of sprouted grains with seaweed, dried fish and fermented vegetables.
Beyond great food, these restaurants are also putting their community first and responding to a noticeable shift in clientele, whether it’s the growing number of freelancers across the country, other chefs who want to eat well outside of work or just the five people who have come to expect endless options at all times. And they do it in style.
“We wanted to be a place that the neighborhood could count on anytime of the day, any day of the week,” says Sara Kramer, Chef / Partner of Kismet. “We want this to feel like a relaxed neighborhood vibe.”
The Sunday team in Brooklyn echoes Kramer here. “It’s about connecting with the community,” they say, which is evident in the pride they take in being a laid back neighborhood place, despite all the buzz.
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“You have to be warm and inviting,” say Dan Salls and Paul Biasco. They are the owners of Quiote which just opened in Chicago, which they say “has many personalities” and “wears many hats”. You can spend the whole day there, starting early at 7am with a sugar coated concha and sticking around long enough to enjoy the mescal bar hidden downstairs.
Grace Lee, Creative Director at De Maria, contrasts the “quick, quick and conservative” nature of an old-fashioned restaurant with the “main, style and quality” of places today, where design also plays an important role. Lee’s goal at De Maria is to “provide guests with an experience from the early morning sun to the night blues”.
Appropriately, the sign outside De Maria’s reads Bless Your Soul. It is a prophecy that comes true the moment you step into the airy space, regardless of the time of day.
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